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Climbing rangers are getting some much needed rest after an “unprecedented” series of events on the slopes of Mt. Shasta over the weekend.
Lead climbing ranger Eric White said there were as many incidences on the mountain Saturday and Sunday as there are in an entire season some years.
Three major factors were to blame for the accidents, including falling ice, strong winds, and snow that was firm, smooth and treacherous for those who stumbled and fell.
A total of nine climbers were assisted off of Mt. Shasta over the two days, White said, including five on Saturday and four on Sunday.
Seven of the assists were accomplished with the California Highway Patrol’s helicopter and crew, including officers Steve Grammer, Scott Grant, Donovan Geyer and Jason Watenpaugh. The other two were assisted by the Siskiyou County Search and Rescue crew on snowmobiles.
Injuries ranged from minor to major, said Search and Rescue operations commander Jim Betts.
“Everyone did a great job keeping up with the flurry of activity,” said White of his fellow climbing rangers Dan Towner, Nick Meyers, Jon Dove and Forrest Coots, as well as all the other personnel who were involved in the numerous rescues.
Dangerous conditions
The warm, wet storms over the past couple of weeks created what’s called rime ice – ice that gets plastered to the cliffs on the upper slopes of the mountain, White said.
Saturday was the first warm, summer-like day of the year, which caused the ice to break off and come pelting down the mountain. The chunks ranged from fist size to the size of beach balls.
“Avalanche Gulch is like a bowling alley, it’s essentially a funnel... we had ice bouncing down the steep slope at head and waist height. Several people were hit and injured, and had to be evacuated,” White said.
Numerous other climbers were hit with debris and suffered minor injuries but were able to get off the mountain on their own, he added.
Making the falling ice more dangerous was the firm, smooth snow. Though the conditions were ideal for experienced climbers who want to move quickly, the firm snow can be dangerous for those who slip and fall and don’t self arrest immediately.
“It can be like a luge course,” White said.
Strong winds also caused a problem when they knocked climbers off balance, in some cases causing long falls on the slippery slopes.
Climbing rangers are getting some much needed rest after an “unprecedented” series of events on the slopes of Mt. Shasta over the weekend.
Lead climbing ranger Eric White said there were as many incidences on the mountain Saturday and Sunday as there are in an entire season some years.
Three major factors were to blame for the accidents, including falling ice, strong winds, and snow that was firm, smooth and treacherous for those who stumbled and fell.
A total of nine climbers were assisted off of Mt. Shasta over the two days, White said, including five on Saturday and four on Sunday.
Seven of the assists were accomplished with the California Highway Patrol’s helicopter and crew, including officers Steve Grammer, Scott Grant, Donovan Geyer and Jason Watenpaugh. The other two were assisted by the Siskiyou County Search and Rescue crew on snowmobiles.
Injuries ranged from minor to major, said Search and Rescue operations commander Jim Betts.
“Everyone did a great job keeping up with the flurry of activity,” said White of his fellow climbing rangers Dan Towner, Nick Meyers, Jon Dove and Forrest Coots, as well as all the other personnel who were involved in the numerous rescues.
Dangerous conditions
The warm, wet storms over the past couple of weeks created what’s called rime ice – ice that gets plastered to the cliffs on the upper slopes of the mountain, White said.
Saturday was the first warm, summer-like day of the year, which caused the ice to break off and come pelting down the mountain. The chunks ranged from fist size to the size of beach balls.
“Avalanche Gulch is like a bowling alley, it’s essentially a funnel... we had ice bouncing down the steep slope at head and waist height. Several people were hit and injured, and had to be evacuated,” White said.
Numerous other climbers were hit with debris and suffered minor injuries but were able to get off the mountain on their own, he added.
Making the falling ice more dangerous was the firm, smooth snow. Though the conditions were ideal for experienced climbers who want to move quickly, the firm snow can be dangerous for those who slip and fall and don’t self arrest immediately.
“It can be like a luge course,” White said.
Strong winds also caused a problem when they knocked climbers off balance, in some cases causing long falls on the slippery slopes.
White said he anticipates more falling ice over the next couple days as the warm weather continues, but hopes that climbing conditions will improve by next weekend.
Know before you go
“It’s really important beyond just going out and renting crampons and an ice axe to get some training with the equipment,” White said.
He added that there are many opportunities for climbers to participate in clinics to learn how to self arrest with an ice axe in the instance of a fall.
“Every year, we have instances of climbers injuring themselves with their own equipment... it’s important to know how to use everything.”
White also urged all climbers to wear a helmet, both to protect themselves from falling debris and to protect their heads in case of a fall.
Perhaps most importantly, White said climbers should use their best judgement when deciding whether or not to ascend the mountain. If conditions appear to be too dangerous, turn around and go back down, he said.
White also recommended that every climber should take advantage of the information available at the Mt. Shasta Avalanche Center website, at www.shastaavalanche.org, or by stopping by the Mount Shasta Ranger’s Station prior to their adventure.
“We always keep in touch with everyone there by radio, so the people at the front desk will be able to provide people with current conditions and information, White said.
